SILK YARN COUNTS

See Denier. Spun silk counts are based on the 840 yards hank, as in cotton, but in folded yarns the finished count is used, not the single count, with the number of component threads placed after the actual count resulting from the doubling. Thus 40/2 has 40 hanks of 840 yards in i-lb. and is composed of two threads of 80's single. Dram System - The weight of 1,000 yards in drams gives the counts, thus if 1,000 yards weighs 6 drams it is known as " 6-dram silk." This is known as the Manchester method of thrown silk counting. Another system is the number of yards per ounce, thus 25,000 organzine or tram yarn means 25,000 yards per ounce, and is that used in Yorkshire. The expression 12/14 as applied to silk yarn counts means that the yarn is not lighter than 12 denier, nor heavier than 14 denier, the average being 13

See Silk Yarn Counts.

A silk yarn of fine counts, reeled in the Banjetty factories, Berhampur, Bengal. The yarn was much esteemed about the years 1880 to 1900

The unreelable portions of silk cocoons, and waste from silk throwing mills, etc. It is spun into yarns of two entirely different characters. The waste silk is carefully combed on specially designed machines, each successive combing yielding shorter fibre length than the previous one. These drafts are spun, usually on ring frames, into high grade yarns. The very short waste or noils remaining when the best fibre has been used are spun into coarse counts on the woollen principle, and on the Continent this class of yarn is known as schappe silk.

This is a large export trade. The yarn is obtained from silk waste, under which inferior cocoons and waste from reeling raw silk are included. It is spun in 65's, 71's singles, and 135's and 120's two-fold for export. Other counts are used locally for Fugi and other fabrics. It is graded in two varieties, Honneri and Hanneri.

When two cocoons are united owing to two worms spinning close together they are termed " doupions " and the same term is given to the raw silk reeled from them. Usually the cocoons are reeled alternately, and where the filaments overlap and come forward together there is very uneven thread formed. This produces a yarn so irregular that it is only used for coarse counts and cheap fabrics.

Knitted dress fabric made from silk yarn of fine counts. An imitation tricotine is made from fine botany worsted in a very fine steep twill weave. Also a striped cotton poplin fabric about 120 ends and 74 picks per inch, 2/100's warp, 2/100's weft. Egyptian yarns.

1. номер (напр. пряжи); 2. плотность ткани; 3. деление (напр. канвовой бумаги) || pl система нумерации (напр. пряжи) @count after doubling номер кручёной пряжи @count of delivery номер уходящего продукта @count of design paper деление канвовой бумаги @count of feed номер входящего полупродукта @Aberdeen counts эбердинская система нумерации пряжи @American reed counts американская система нумерации бёрд @cloth pick count плотность ткани по утку @coarse count низкий номер (напр. пряжи) @cotton counts система нумерации хлопчатобумажной пряжи @cotton-yarn count номер хлопчатобумажной пряжи @cut counts система линейной нумерации (напр. пряжа) @dead-hair count содержание мёртвых волокон в хлопке @deconvolutions count число раскручиваний, характеризующее степень набухания волокон хлопка в процессе мерсеризации @denier counts весовая система нумерации (напр. пряжи) @dram counts 1. система нумерации кручёного шёлка; 2. система нумерации аппаратной шерстяной пряжи @elementary count номер элементарного одиночного волокна @equivalent count эквивалентный или приведённый номер (напр. пряжи) @even count низкий номер (напр. пряжи) @fabric count плотность ткани @fine count высокий номер (напр. пряжи) @finished count плотность готовой ткани @flax counts система нумерации льняной пряжи @high-thread count высокая плотность ткани @international metric counts международная метрическая система нумерации (напр. пряжи) @jute counts система нумерации джутовой пряжи @limit count предельный номер (напр. пряжи) @linen counts система нумерации льняной пряжи @loom pick count плотность ткани в процессе ткачества @Macclesfield reed counts макклсфилдская система нумерации бёрд (выраженная числом зубьев на 36 дюймов с указанием числа нитей на зуб) @medium count средний номер (напр. пряжи) @metric count метрический номер (напр. пряжи) @needle count 1. номер иглы; 2. плотность вязаного изделия; 3. число игл в машине @nep count чистота прочёса (выраженная числом узелков в чесальной ватке) @nominal count номинальный номер (напр. пряжи) @Radcliffe reed counts радклифская система нумерации бёрд (выраженная числом зубьев на дюйм) @rayon counts система нумерации искусственного шёлка (в денье) @reed count номер бёрда @rubber-thread count номер резиновой жилки @run counts система нумерации аппаратной пряжи @Scotch reed counts шотландская система нумерации бёрд @silk counts система нумерации шёлка (в денье) @specified count норма плотности ткани @spun count 1. фактический номер пряжи; 2. средний номер пряжи @thread count плотность ткани @warp count номер основной пряжи @weft count номер уточной пряжи @wool counts система нумерации шерстяной пряжи @worsted counts система нумерации шерстяной гребенной пряжи @yarn count номер пряжи @

1. номер (напр. пряжи); 2. плотность ткани; 3. деление (напр. канвовой бумаги) || pl система нумерации (напр. пряжи) @count after doubling номер кручёной пряжи @count of delivery номер уходящего продукта @count of design paper деление канвовой бумаги @count of feed номер входящего полупродукта @Aberdeen counts эбердинская система нумерации пряжи @American reed counts американская система нумерации бёрд @cloth pick count плотность ткани по утку @coarse count низкий номер (напр. пряжи) @cotton counts система нумерации хлопчатобумажной пряжи @cotton-yarn count номер хлопчатобумажной пряжи @cut counts система линейной нумерации (напр. пряжа) @dead-hair count содержание мёртвых волокон в хлопке @deconvolutions count число раскручиваний, характеризующее степень набухания волокон хлопка в процессе мерсеризации @denier counts весовая система нумерации (напр. пряжи) @dram counts 1. система нумерации кручёного шёлка; 2. система нумерации аппаратной шерстяной пряжи @elementary count номер элементарного одиночного волокна @equivalent count эквивалентный или приведённый номер (напр. пряжи) @even count низкий номер (напр. пряжи) @fabric count плотность ткани @fine count высокий номер (напр. пряжи) @finished count плотность готовой ткани @flax counts система нумерации льняной пряжи @high-thread count высокая плотность ткани @international metric counts международная метрическая система нумерации (напр. пряжи) @jute counts система нумерации джутовой пряжи @limit count предельный номер (напр. пряжи) @linen counts система нумерации льняной пряжи @loom pick count плотность ткани в процессе ткачества @Macclesfield reed counts макклсфилдская система нумерации бёрд (выраженная числом зубьев на 36 дюймов с указанием числа нитей на зуб) @medium count средний номер (напр. пряжи) @metric count метрический номер (напр. пряжи) @needle count 1. номер иглы; 2. плотность вязаного изделия; 3. число игл в машине @nep count чистота прочёса (выраженная числом узелков в чесальной ватке) @nominal count номинальный номер (напр. пряжи) @Radcliffe reed counts радклифская система нумерации бёрд (выраженная числом зубьев на дюйм) @rayon counts система нумерации искусственного шёлка (в денье) @reed count номер бёрда @rubber-thread count номер резиновой жилки @run counts система нумерации аппаратной пряжи @Scotch reed counts шотландская система нумерации бёрд @silk counts система нумерации шёлка (в денье) @specified count норма плотности ткани @spun count 1. фактический номер пряжи; 2. средний номер пряжи @thread count плотность ткани @warp count номер основной пряжи @weft count номер уточной пряжи @wool counts система нумерации шерстяной пряжи @worsted counts система нумерации шерстяной гребенной пряжи @yarn count номер пряжи @

(See knitting). All yarns used for knitting are termed hosiery yarns in Leicester, but in America only yarns actually used for knitted footwear come under this term. These yarns are much softer than required for weaving. Miscellaneous Yarns - Goat wools, such as llama and alpaca are employed in spinning. yarns for the knitting trade. Vicuna and camel yarns are used to a limited extent. Ramie yarn is specially employed for knitting gas mantle fabrics. Soft spun flax yams have been used for making underwear fabric. Chenille and other manufactured threads are used to a small extent in warp knitting. Composite yarns, such as union yarns - spun from a mixture of wool and cotton fibres; cordon yarns - cotton and worsted singles, doubled together; wool and rayon or spun silk, cotton and rayon or spun silk are largely used to produce self or two-colour effects. Fancy yarns, such as slub yams, voiles, and curled and loop yarns are also employed. Hosiery Yarns (Cotton) include condenser, hosiery, condenser lisle thread, mercerised and sewing cottons. Condenser yarns are spun in coarse counts from low-grade cotton, Indian and American. They are carded, condensed and mule spun, and possess little twist. Hosiery cotton yarns vary considerably in counts and qualities, practically all varieties of Indian, American and Egyptian being used in varying proportions to obtain suitable mixture for quality and price. Cheaper yarns are carded and mule spun. American and Egyptian cotton yarns are combed mainly with the object of removing seed particles. High-class Egyptian and Sea Islands cotton yarns are super-combed. The chief features of a hosiery cotton yam should be: (1) Regularity; (2) cleanliness; (3) fullness. Regularity prevents the making of cloudy fabric, showing thick and thin places. Cleanliness is essential, as the seed particles clog the eyelet hole in the yam guides and cause breakages. Fullness is desirable to cover the loop interstices. Elasticity and pliability are quite as essential as tensile strength. Yams are usually soft spun and if two-fold soft doubled, average twists in two-fold being 2/10's 6¹/₂T., 2/20's 8¹/₂T., 2/30's 10T., 2/40's 16T., 2/80's 20T. Softer twist less 25 to 30 per cent of average (T= turns per inch). Lisle thread is a comparatively hard-twisted and doubly-gassed thread in which there are no projecting fibres. It is always of a two-fold character, and the doubling twist varies from 24 to 34 turns per inch in 2/60's. It is used largely in the manufacture of ladies' hose tops and feet and for lace hosiery. Mercerised yams are used largely in the fancy trade, a comparatively soft twist again being employed. Sewing cottons for seaming, linking and making-up are specially prepared in two to six cord open and reverse twist. Woollen and Worsted Yarns include lamb's wool, wheeling, skein yarns, gala yams (woollens), worsted, crossbreds, fingering, cashmere, dry spun botany (see under each name). Worsted and crossbred yarns of various qualities are used. These yams are spun softly with " hosiery twist." The drawing may be open, cone or French, and the spinning may take place on cap, ring or flyer frames. The chief essentials of hosiery yarn are softness of fibre, fullness, minimum of twist consistent with the requisite tensile strength, regularity, pliability and elasticity. Cashmere Yarns, as used in the knitted goods industry, are spun from short, loose and weak wools as well as from better qualities by French drawing and mule spinning. A small proportion of real cashmere is used for outer garments. In recent years nylon yarns have been largely employed.

(1) - A loin cloth generally in a check design from 2 yards to 9¹/₂ yards long by 29-in. to 44-in. wide, woven from ordinary as well as mercerised cotton and sometimes from an admixture of cotton yarn with silk, rayon and mercerised cotton yarn. Worn by Mohammedans. Made on hand looms by native labour (2) - A favourite head-dress with a large part of the population in the Punjab as well as the North-west Frontier Province. It is woven in plain white, or in check and "Chini" designs mostly on primitive looms from mill_ made yarn of 20's to 40's counts. The first two varieties are used by almost all classes, especially among Hindus, while the latter called " chini " (woven with blue and white ends in alternate order) is precerred by the Mohammedans. The chief districts of production are Hoshiarpur, Jullundur, Ludhiana, Sialkot and Amritsar. Many varieties are made, each differing in some particular. The best known are as follows: - Lungi Amirana has gold thread borders. Lungi Battala, the body of the cloth is in red checks. Lungi Chaugarri has two-colour check designs. Lungi Chautani, the warp has four colour stripes, red, green, yellow and white. Lungi Chirwin has a white ground with single colour picks at intervals. Lungi Fakiri has a grey ground with single colour picks, yellow and white. Lungi Manjha has dark and light blue checks. Lungi Sated is plain white. Lungi Safed Kinaradar has a white ground and coloured border. Lungi Tirkandi has three colours in warp and weft. Lungi Tirtani has three colours in warp in three bars, red, green, yellow.

A warp-faced silk dress fabric, woven in 6- or 8-shaft weave. Made on one beam, with warps of single, double, triple and four-ply yarn, set alternately in advancing and diminishing counts. Sometimes two ends of each yarn were set together next to each other.

A very strong and durable fibre. It is grown in China, Japan, Java, India, etc. Ramie fibre is very white, has a high lustre, and can be separated into filaments as fine as silk. The ramie plant belongs to the family of Urtica (nettle) and to the sub-division Boehmeria. It contains about 25 per cent of gum and when degummed is much stronger than hemp or cotton. It can be spun with less twist than other fibres of similar length of staple. It resists damp, and when mixed with wool imparts non-shrinking properties to the resulting yarn. The fibre lengths vary from 4-in. to 72-in. It is much used for gas mantles. Ramie counts are usually in the worsted system (see China Grass). The two best fibre-yielding species are" Boehmeria tenacissima, often called the green-leaved ramie, as its leaves are entirely green; and Boehmeria nivea, often called the white-leaved ramie, as the undersides of its leaves are silvery white. The nivea species is very largely grown in China, and to a lesser degree in India and Formosa, and the tenacissima in Java, Sumatra, Borneo, Malacca, Mexico, and other tropical countries.

A very strong and durable fibre. It is grown in China, Japan, Java, India, etc. Ramie fibre is very white, has a high lustre, and can be separated into filaments as fine as silk. The ramie plant belongs to the family of Urtica (nettle) and to the sub-division Boehmeria. It contains about 25 per cent of gum and when degummed is much stronger than hemp or cotton. It can be spun with less twist than other fibres of similar length of staple. It resists damp, and when mixed with wool imparts non-shrinking properties to the resulting yarn. The fibre lengths vary from 4-in. to 72-in. It is much used for gas mantles. Ramie counts are usually in the worsted system (see China Grass). The two best fibre-yielding species are" Boehmeria tenacissima, often called the green-leaved ramie, as its leaves are entirely green; and Boehmeria nivea, often called the white-leaved ramie, as the undersides of its leaves are silvery white. The nivea species is very largely grown in China, and to a lesser degree in India and Formosa, and the tenacissima in Java, Sumatra, Borneo, Malacca, Mexico, and other tropical countries.

An all-silk dress fabric, woven in the 8-shaft warp satin weave, from dyed yarn in fine counts. Set about 240 ends and 92 picks per inch, 36¹/₂-in. 35 denier warp, 100 denier weft. Woven from dyed yarns and finished with a firm handle.

French floss silk embroidery yarn used largely for tapestry work as well as embroidery. Obtainable in hanks only in many counts and colours.